Officially already the best selling racing camera just got better!
What's new compared to the V3?
-Multi mode: Day/Night/Led preset scenery shortcuts
-Higher quality and more natural image
Also available in Conventional Harness connector version for those who don't want to deal with soldering :-)
- Improved Super WDR
- More Natural Image
- Lower Noise
- Mode Switch Shortcut
- Wide Input Voltage
- Low Latency
- 4:3/16:9 & NTSC/PAL Switchable
- Image Sensor: CMOS
- Horizontal Resolution 1000TVL
- Aspect Ratio: 16:9/4:3
- Signal System NTSC/PAL
- Lens Size: M8
- Focal Length: 1.8mm
- Minimum Latency: 4ms
- Input Voltage 5-40V
- Dimensions: 19x18.6mm (Micro)
- 1x Foxeer Predator Micro V4 1000TVL
- 1x Bracket
- 1x Servo Cable to Foxeer ClearTX VTX
- 1x Servo Cable to TBS Unify VTX
- 1x 2 Pin OSD Cable
- 1x OSD Board
- 4x Bracket Screws
- 4x Washers
- 2x Case Screws
- 1x Manual
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Your question will appear on the site once someone answers it.
The 1.7mm FOV is slightly wider, and the noticeable addition of more vertical field is definitely there, and surprisingly little fish eye emerges as a direct result of that change, but for me personally that really just adds a few degrees more of spinning props and results in a less familiar field of view, so I traded back and kept running 1.8mm lenses on all of mine.
I have 14 of these, and run them on all my 5", 6", and 7" quads. Durability is very good - although I've crashed hard enough to have a few lens rings crack and fail, and the most common and frustrating issue has been rapid-unplanned-decelerations that end up leaving the lens cross-threaded, which makes it a lot trickier to get it really fully back in focus, but that is entirely workable - just takes time, but those cameras survived hits so hard I wouldn't have been disappointed if it was all black screen anyway.
Solder pad variant is a nice addition for tighter builds, although I really do like the floating connector quite a bit. I went ahead and went all soldered for my racing builds so there would be less to go wrong, but I actually use those 4-pin harnesses for VTXs.
The only camera that competes with this for space on my builds is actually the Razer - not because this isn't a great camera, but because it's pricy. On builds with nice parts, and used for more than just racing, these are a very worthwhile investment, while my cheaper builds have been relegated to rocking a camera half the price.
To get better performance, you have to go to a larger 1/2" sensor, and with all those cameras I've tried, then mess around with more settings to get a clean image without odd artifacts or color issues - most also require spending even more on a lens to get this field of view (which for me, is a perfect FOV for flying - set camera to 47°, I can barely see props at the bottom and when I put sticks to plastic I can still see where I'm going). It isn't as if the image quality from this is in any way less than stellar - I'm sure with an onboard DVR it would be pretty astounding, but what matters most to me is having the clarity across varying light conditions and the FOV that lets me track reference points consistently.
So, for me, the Predator 1.8mm setup is the best camera outright because the superior light handling matters so much when flying around trees or at dusk.